The clasp is the part of a gold chain most people never think about until it fails. It's also the part that gets opened and closed every single day, so it takes more wear than any link in the chain. Here's what the different clasps are, which ones we use, and how to pick when you're ordering a handmade piece.
Lobster clasp: the standard on stock chains
Most of our stock chains — the machine-made ropes, Francos, Figaros, curbs, and Cubans under 6mm — come with a lobster clasp. It's the spring-loaded clasp with a small lever you pull back with your thumbnail; it snaps shut on its own when you let go.
Why it's the default: it's reliable, it's easy to operate one-handed, and it's proportionate on thinner chains where a bulkier lock would look out of place.
What to check: the spring. A healthy lobster clasp snaps closed firmly. If the lever feels soft, or the jaw doesn't fully close, the spring is wearing and the clasp should be replaced before it opens on its own. It's a cheap repair — don't wait on it.
Sizing matters: a lobster clasp should be sized to the chain. A tiny clasp on a 5mm rope is a weak point; a heavy clasp on a 2mm chain looks wrong and sits awkwardly. The chains we stock are sized correctly from the manufacturer, but it's worth knowing when you're comparing listings elsewhere.
Box lock: the standard on handmade Cubans
Every handmade Miami Cuban we build comes with a handmade box lock. It's a rectangular clasp built as part of the chain — one end of the chain is a hollow box, the other end is a folded tongue that slides in and clicks into place. You press the tongue to release it.
Why it's the right clasp for a heavy chain:
- It carries weight. A 6mm–10mm handmade Cuban can weigh 50–140 grams. A box lock is built to the chain's width and holds that load across its whole body, not on one small spring.
- It matches the chain. The lock is made in the same gold, at the same width, with the same finish, so it reads as part of the piece rather than a piece of hardware hanging off it.
- It's serviceable. Because it's solid gold and handmade, it can be tightened, polished, or rebuilt by any competent bench jeweler for the life of the chain.
How to open it: press the tongue tab straight in and pull the two halves apart. Don't twist or pry. If it ever feels stiff, that's the tongue's spring tension doing its job — a jeweler can adjust it in minutes if it's uncomfortable.
The two upgrades
On every handmade Cuban listing you'll see a lock option with three choices. Here's what the two upgrades actually are.
Natural diamond button
A natural diamond set into the push-button on the box lock. The clasp works exactly the same way; the diamond is the detail you see every time the lock faces forward or when the chain is worn lock-to-front, which plenty of people do on purpose. It's a small touch that reads as intentional, and it's the most popular of the two upgrades.
Price: +$250 on any width.
Sleek Lock
Our Sleek Lock is a slimmer-profile alternative to the traditional box lock. The box lock is deliberately substantial; the Sleek Lock is for the buyer who wants the clasp to disappear into the line of the chain as much as possible while still carrying the weight of a handmade piece.
Price: +$250 on 6mm–8mm, with a slightly higher upcharge on the widest builds — the exact figure shows in the lock dropdown on each listing.
Which one should you choose?
- Standard box lock — if you want the classic Miami Cuban look. This is what most of our handmade customers order, and there's nothing it gives up to the upgrades in strength or longevity.
- Diamond button — if you like the clasp as a visible feature. Especially good on chains worn with the lock to the front, and on bracelets, where the clasp is always in view.
- Sleek Lock — if you want the chain to be the whole story and the clasp to stay out of it.
Whichever you pick, it's selected on the listing before checkout and built into the chain during production, which runs roughly 2–6 weeks from payment, depending on production load. Clasp choice doesn't change the production time.
Clasp care on any chain
- Open and close it over a soft surface for the first few weeks while you learn the feel of it — most lost chains are dropped during the on-and-off, not while being worn.
- Wipe the clasp when you wipe the chain. Every order ships with an anti-tarnish cloth; the clasp collects skin oils faster than the links because it's handled directly.
- Check it every month or so. On a lobster clasp, test the spring. On a box lock, make sure the tongue clicks in firmly and doesn't pull free without pressing the button.
- Don't sleep in it. Clasps take the most stress when a chain is pulled sideways against a pillow.
Full cleaning and storage habits are in our care and cleaning guide, and if you're deciding between a stock Cuban and a handmade one, this comparison covers everything beyond the clasp.
Not sure which lock suits the chain you're planning? Message us with the width and length you're thinking about and we'll tell you honestly which one we'd put on it.